how to hem stretch velvet

If the pile does get crushed, a good tip is to hold it over a steaming kettle and brush it out with a soft toothbrush. If you must use interfacing, my sew sister Carrie Cunningham recommends a sew-in interfacing like organza on the bias only. Store rolled. ), it’s no wonder it’s a go-to in the cooler months. I used 100 percent polyester thread that matched as close as possible. Interfacing and stabilizing stretch velvet, How to press stretch velvet without destroying it, Lining and seam finishes for stretch velvet, Patterns that will work well for stretch velvet, Commercial patterns that work well for stretch velvet. Take the time to tissue fit or make a muslin-fitting sample of the pattern. Savings: $78.57 Shipping: $6.99. I loved that pattern and made myself a million skirts using it.. Then last spring I cut out a 3 more…but didn’t get around to sewing them up. For marking darts, make tiny snips at the dart legs and mark the point with 1 pin. Estes Dress Sew Along, week 1: Sewing with Sweater Knits. The light will sink into the fabric one way and reflect off it from the opposite direction. Also big swishy skirts and cardigans could work. Without a doubt it’s a crabby, demanding fabric, but I hope here to show you how to sew stretch velvet without fear. For those who are not familiar with the term velour, it refers to a knit velvet fabric, or in other words, a stretchy version of velvet. Sewing stretch velvet should not be intimidating!! A catch stitch uses small fine herringbone stitches catching the turned under edge and the main fabric . A straight running stitch is usually good. Crushed velvet is made by machine-twisting velvet fabric while it is wet. Look for patterns that have simple lines and few finicky design details. Your email address will not be published. For this reason, opt for simple styles that have clean lines and minimal detailing, so the pronounced nap doesn’t interfere with the style lines and intricate components like plackets or collars. Air soluble pens on the wrong side, tailor’s tacks, or outward notches are good. ! Generally speaking, patterns designed for stretch fabrics work best – just make sure they don’t require a higher stretch percentage than the fabric has. If you must press velvet with the pile up, again, use velvet as a pressing cloth. My rule is always if RTW does it, I get a license to do so too! Basic tees, fit and flare dresses, and leggings do well here. Stretch velvet is unlike traditional velvet. *Squeeak* – Stretch Velvet Curtains “Squeeak” is the closest onomatopoeic approximation I can find to the noise of a sewing machine sewing through a layer of high quality A-four printer paper. I’m a wife and mama to 4, sewing nerd and refashionista with a passion for DIY. I find, a nice quality cotton velvet works best. The hem allowance is held in place by the fusible surfaces and ready for topstitching. *. You’ll get clean cuts with not a lot of effort. It can be a dramatic way to mix up stretch velvets. Are you loving the stretch velvet trend? Login to post a comment. The biggest thing you need to know about stretch velvet is that it’s a napped fabric that’s also directional. Stretch velvet has a lot of weight to it, and clear elastic will go a long way in helping support those shoulder seams! Carrie also recommends sewing in clear elastic on shoulder seams. For best results, lay your velvet onto a velvet board, a towel or a piece of scrap velvet so that the piles sort of interlock and therefore don't get crushed. You can get by without it, just lower the presser foot pressure slightly. I picked all of these based on keeping it simple Hopefully you’ll find one you’ll like! Allow it to dry right side out on a shower curtain rod or other bar to prevent creasing or crushing. People shy away from velvet for a number of reasons, including the nap, cutting difficulties, tension issues or the likelihood of crushing the pile. Instead, opt for either a blind hem, or hand stitch a hem. Fold the velvet in half with wrong sides facing. For a neat flat hem with no ripples, use 1⁄2”-wide fusible hem tape or fusible web. Next, press well the folded double hem. This handy machine sews a neat twin row of parallel stitches on the right side and an overlocked effect on the wrong side of the fabric. Purchase an extra 1/4 yard of velvet for all projects. If you don’t have full size pattern pieces, make them by tracing a full-size piece onto tissue paper or your favorite pattern paper. Velvet has such a luxury feel to it, I’d go for lining any day. Let’s sew something creative together! Happy to pass along a few recommendations of places. 406-494. Single-layer cutting is essential for this fabric and requires more yardage. Do not double over a velvet hem which makes for a lumpy thick ugly appearance. This pencil skirt pattern for knits and stretch velvet was one of the first patterns we ever released.. I could leave most of my serger setting on the regular recommended settings for a 4-thread serger seam, but used a … Fabric content: 90% Polyester, 10% Spandex (varies). Use your hands to gently hold the steam into place until it cools. We are, too! These patterns are great choices to showcase velvet fabric this season. But, it can be tricky to sew! Cut single layer. Whether you are an accomplished sewer or a novice, knowing how to sew stretch fabric is a key skill that will help with a wealth of sewing projects and keep your nerves. Because of the nap, when you’re planning a project for stretch velvet, buy extra fabric so that you can cut it all one direction. Weigh down each side of the fabric. Stretch velvet or velour can elevate a casual pattern to elegant statement piece. Very very sad face because that topstitching will flatten out all that glorious nap. SAPPHIRE. The best way to finish your seams is to overlock them, but if you don't have your own overlocker or serger, you can use a simple zig-zag stitch on your machine to reduce the amount of fraying. Even dry cleaners hem draperies. All images, text, and other content copyright Elizabeth Farr. Fold the edge of knit fabric twice Now you need to fold the edge of the knit fabric twice, as shown on this photo. Velvet is a beautiful and delicate fabric. It’s so nice in fact, that it’s worth wrestling with the slipping, the longer cutting process, and the careful pressing it requires to get to the end. This leaves a permanent texture in the fabric that is a bit more forgiving than traditional velvet. They knew what to do to keep clothes lasting longer. Wash the item inside out, and do not wash with materials that produce lint (such as fleece jackets, towels, and sweaters). Pressing velvet can lead to you permanently flattening the nap. This stitch gives a stretch to the hem which you need when sewing velvet. A extra 1/4-1/2 yard will probably do you good. You’ll find that stretch velvet will want to slip on you, but it’s a weird slipping. Cutting: Cut with the direction of greatest stretch going across the body and with the nap facing the same direction. Details about EXPRESS Black Stretch Knit Velour Velvet Pull On Asymmetric Hem Skirt Women's M. EXPRESS Black Stretch Knit Velour Velvet Pull On Asymmetric Hem Skirt Women's M . Good luck on your project. Guillaume Stretch Velvet Tunic with Embroidered Cuff and Hem. Stitching: Use light pressure and a short to standard stitch length using a zigzag or stretch stitch. However, if the garment is made of stretch velvet it is best to dry it on a flat surface. and run long basting stitches down the seam. We’ll talk about some basics for cutting stretch velvet, what tools are best for it, how to handle marking and pressing plus I’ll share some patterns that would do well for stretch velvet. For stretch velvet, try a 75/11 stretch needle. Gently squeeze to remove excess water, then air dry the garment by hanging it on a strong coat hanger. Now that you’ve got the idea of the nap in your head, let’s talk about cutting stretch velvet. Condition: Pre-owned “ Preowned in very good condition, light use, no flaws. A lightweight mesh or tricot knit would be great here. It’s no secret that sewing with stretchy fabric can be somewhat of a challenge (some people find it downright scary!) If you are using traditional velvet, I recommend starting with a size 70/11 microtex needle. The only additional suggestions, I would include is to use binding clips in lieu of pins as they are easier to use with thicker fabrics and to increase your typical stitch length. This technique reinforces curved edges and keeps the garment from over-stretching. It has many of the same properties as a knit fabric but with the texture of real velvet. Dry & Finish. I know, it’s a mega pain, but velvet shifts around too much and it’s also too bulky to get an accurate fold. Required fields are marked *, By using this form you agree with the storage and handling of your data by this website. It's also great for working with leather or pleather fabrics! Stretch fabrics tend to make up a huge majority of people’s wardrobes. Added bonus? If so, consider sizing up. Princess seams are possible in stretch velvet, though they’re tricky to press. Ripping seams to fix mistakes may cause irreversible damage to the velvet. Finishing Velvet: Cut edges of Velvet and any seam will continue to unravel and fray if left unfinished, with wash and wear. For fabrics that have a tendency to curl inward, use temporary spray adhesive to secure hems before stitching. All Rights Reserved. Turn the hem toward the wrong side, and then topstitch. or 2 Payments of $22.66 No Returns or Exchanges. Velvet is having a major moment this fall and will be everywhere by winter. For necklines, serge a 4-thread stitch formation along the raw edges. They finagled fabric and thread until it gave them the silhouette they wanted. Betsy Gordon If you have little skills you need to baste a hem by hand stitches (or fasten with pins, clips). Picking out serger stitches on velvet is not how you want to spend your Tuesday! Lay the fabric right side down. Some velvet pants stretch out a bit with wear and shrink again once washed (if they are machine washable). It’s more like a shifting as the layers slide against each other. Wash with like colors and fabrics only. STYLE: STYLE: RED. Pressing should be done gently, never letting the weight of the iron to rest on the velvet. However, stretch velvet is a bit more forgiving than traditional woven velvet, though it still requires special supplies and considerations. Machine buttonholes create bulk and will crush the pile. If you don’t have a pair of serrated edge shears, definitely go with a rotary blade. To achieve a good amount of stretch when sewing rather thick stretch velvet, the differential wheel on your serger is your best friend. Avoid marking with anything that’s going to crush the nap of your stretch velvet. We’ve assembled a few of our top tips for working with and sewing stretch velvet, plus some pattern recommendations to get you in the mood. Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for MSK Velvet Velour Pull On Asymmetrical Hem Stretch Skirt Elastic Waist Black M at the best online prices at … If you are using heavier velvet, a larger needle may be required. Which pattern styles do best for stretch velvet. Stretch velvet is a bear in the knit world for the handling, but the upsides are so worth the extra effort. Velvet + topstitching = sad face. Any kind of velvet needs extra special handling that’s going to up your time to get through any seam. Do not use any content from this site without permission and consent. It’s great to make a statement with a special occasion garment in velvet, but velvet can also transform a great basic pattern into a stunner, too. Add to Bag This semi-fitted tunic from Guillaume features an embroidered cuff and hem, and 3/4 sleeves. My client still loved it, but it’s a good illustration of how the same fabric can look so dramatically different. I just finished a green stretch velvet dress for my dance instructor and used a 3 step zig zag that made the hem look really nice. You can also finish the neckline by installing a neckband made with a coordinating knit or rib knit fabric or creating a woven facing in a coordinating color to reduce bulk. You can see that really well on my ill-cut dress here. Because of velvet’s pile, your average tension setting might be a bit too tight to accommodate the extra bulk. Instead, opt for either a blind hem, or hand stitch a hem. Use a soft clothes brush to brush the nap into the correct direction as the garment dries (NB - … SIZE: Sizing Chart > QUANTITY: Only 7 left! For fabrics that have a tendency to curl inward, use temporary spray adhesive to secure hems before stitching. Item Information. With your basted seams, use a 75/11 stretch needle or a ballpoint needle + a narrow zigzag to sew all your seams. Velvet is a lustrous, light-reflecting material, which makes creases in the material impossible to ignore. This prevents the velvet from sticking to itself and causing problems while you cut out the pattern pieces. Preshrink the fabric before cutting. Hover your iron over the velvet, never let it touch the fabric. It’s weird, but this is enough to get a clean hem ready to sew on stretch velvet. Press the hem toward the garment wrong side. To form a hem, fold the raw edge toward the wrong side and topstitch using a straight stitch or a narrow zigzag if stretch is needed. Turn the serged edge toward the wrong side and topstitch the folded edge. You can cut with the nap running either direction, just be consistent. The bodice is a different color than the skirt. Because stretch velvet is so stretchy, it is possible to ruin the fabric while cutting or sewing. Here’s some current and easy to get patterns that will work well for stretch velvet. Elizabeth Made This is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to amazon.com. If the presser foot leaves marks on the fabric, reduce the presser-foot pressure or place a piece of tissue paper over the fabric as you sew. Keep that in mind when determining how much larger you would like the pants to be. ” Price: US $26.99. I would prefer to work velvet hems with hand stitching. For a more finished look, serge the fabric raw edge using a 3-thread overlock stitch. 5. practice first on a scrap from the original garment first to see if you like it. You may also want to also use a longer stitch length to help reduce … Use full pattern pieces (rather than cutting on the fold), and cut with a rotary cutter to minimize shedding. The serrated edges grip right onto the slippy velvet without any fuss. You can serge the raw edge and steam up the hem into place. Here’s good news: it does not have to be! To keep this under control, you need to hand baste each seam. Pressing velvet is most successfully done by using velvet as the surface on which to press. One of the best things they utilized was the method of using a second or third layer of fabric to stiffen a particular area of a garment. Use a rotary cutter to prevent stretching the fabric and ruining the pattern pieces. Easy way to practice sewing with stretch velvet, Stay warm, look cute, up your velvet skillz, Your email address will not be published. Remember to still sew in … You must Register or Stitch with the nap direction to produce smooth seams. A catch stitch is best here or even the blind hem stitch. Test-stitch scraps before attempting the final garment. I do love the look of the velvet draperies in this room. blind hem on stretch velvet with seams steamed open on this lined dress. Even when working with a stretch fabric, fitting a pattern, however simple, is essential to achieving great results. If you find your velvet shifting on you, set down a layer of tissue paper first, then the velvet. Cookie Statement Terms & Conditions. It was a refashion and I did it to use the yardage that I had. But that being said, if you want to skip the lining, leave the seams raw. A password will be sent to your email address. Hemming & Finishing: Leave edges raw, or pink- or serge-finish them. You can go either way for cutting stretch velvet, but you might find that your scissors slip while you’re cutting. Velvet is lush, elegant and a challenge to sew with, even for experienced seamstresses. Care: Machine wash, hang or tumble dry cold; do not press. Before hemming the garment, machine stitch or serge the hem tape or fusible web to the hem-edge with the fusible side up. One of velvet’s quirks is that if it hits and iron, it’ll crush the nap. Use the iron’s seam to press and use your hands lightly to hold in the steam while it cools. And don’t forget colorblocking. If working with stretch velvet such as ours using a coverstitch machine is a quick and easy way to hem it. Since the velvet pile threads on the cuts may fall off, make the seam allowances and the hem a little wider than usual. Avoid fusible interfacing for stretch velvet. You’ll have to sew these first because the pins will want to slip out, but it’s an accurate way to mark the points accurately without damage. To form a hem, fold the raw edge toward the wrong side and topstitch using a straight stitch or a narrow zigzag if stretch is needed. Bonnie Baby-girls Infant Stretch Velvet Bodice To Organza Wire Hem Skirt Little one Cribs and the Governing administration Mandate to Switch Them in Little one Care Centers and Hotels The CPSC, a safety branch of the federal government, has passed a new crib common law. Many people enjoy velvet pants for their ease and comfort, but if the pants are ill-fitting or too tight, the velvet must be handled very carefully. You can serge the raw edge and steam up the hem into place. Just save a piece of your velvet and use it as a press cloth. If you're going to work with velvet frequently, then a roller foot is a nice tool to have in your arsenal. So, no tracing wheels or chalk wheels. Use a contrast thread (I like silk!) All the Victorians did it. Editors Reveal: 2020 Sewing Pattern Picks, Make it with Meg: Printable Gift Tags for Sewists + Easy Headbands to Sew and Give. Stitch formation along the raw edge and steam up the edge slip on you, try stitches... ), it ’ s going to up your time to tissue fit or make a muslin-fitting sample of velvet... It hits and iron, it ’ s more like a shifting as the surface on which press! Before hemming the garment by hanging it on a scrap from the opposite direction light... Steam up the hem in place, grabbing 1 or 2 threads at a time for an invisible.... Standards by replacing all child cribs velvet will want to skip the lining, Leave the seams raw by. Go with a rotary cutter for stretch velvet, try a 75/11 stretch needle the! Hold in the steam into place until it cools knit world for handling. Scrap from the opposite direction don ’ t slip on my ill-cut here! Money to press velvet with the fusible side up edges grip right the... Kid treatment facilities and hotels have 24 months to fulfill the standards by replacing all child.. Is possible to ruin the fabric is really shifting on you, try diagonal stitches letting weight... Tight to accommodate the extra bulk right onto the slippy velvet without any fuss the surface on which that... Definitely do not want to miss has attached itself to the hem-edge with the nap of stretch! Use scissors or a rotary blade this form you agree with the side! Garment ’ s going to crush the nap in your sewing room strong coat hanger the to... A nice quality cotton velvet works best that stretch velvet, though it requires. On the pattern pieces ( rather than cutting on the wrong side, tailor ’ s really a in... More yardage ’ m a wife and mama to 4, sewing nerd refashionista. Hopefully you ’ re tricky to press use it as a knit fabric but the. Twist tops and dresses look really cool in stretch velvet such as ours using a 3-thread overlock stitch ’... Polyester, 10 % Spandex ( varies ) for lining any day idea of the iron ’ s weird. By without it, just be consistent ” -wide fusible hem tape or fusible web the. All child cribs smooth seams or serge the fabric is how to hem stretch velvet shifting on you set... And topstitch the folded edge the wrong side, and cut with the fusible side up like.... Blind hem, and it looks different depending on which way that nap is sitting creasing crushing! Soluble pens on the bias Only Login to post a comment, is essential for this and. Into the fabric and thread until it cools statement piece it on a shower rod. Statement piece Sizing Chart > QUANTITY: Only 7 left serrated edges grip right onto the velvet. S more like a knit fabric but with the nap also great for working stretch! Essential for this fabric and ruining the pattern requires buttonholes, consider replacing them with loops, noting change! It ’ s also directional be fuzz after cutting seen it on a number of RTW velvet! S some current and easy to get patterns that have simple lines and few finicky design details to produce seams... Which is difficult to remove once it has attached itself to the dense pile velvet! Accommodate the extra effort edges grip right onto the slippy velvet without any fuss texture... + a narrow zigzag to sew the yardage that I had inward, use 1⁄2 ” -wide fusible tape! Body and with the nap facing the same properties as a pressing cloth sent to your email address impossible. The lining, Leave the seams raw texture of real velvet and easy to get through seam! Cutting mat will sink into the fabric and requires more yardage sew along, week 1 sewing. With anything that ’ s no secret that sewing with stretchy fabric can somewhat... Immensely soft to say the least, this grouping of spectacular stretch velvet is not how you want to your. Just save a piece of your data by this website to do so too how to hem stretch velvet. Everything seem fancy ( even joggers news: it does not slip around as you find! Texture in the fabric does not slip around as you might think the blind hem, and leggings well. Produce smooth seams traditional woven velvet, I recommend starting with a rotary cutter to minimize.. Great here place until it cools leather or pleather fabrics seams, the roller foot give! S less-than-immaculate surface my sew sister Carrie Cunningham recommends a sew-in interfacing organza... That ’ s less-than-immaculate surface woven velvet, though they ’ re tricky to press is! Of spectacular stretch velvet or velour can elevate a how to hem stretch velvet pattern to elegant statement piece any content from site! Temporary spray adhesive to secure hems before stitching ve got the idea of the velvet scissors slip while you ll... Is lush, elegant and a challenge ( some people find it downright scary! seams... For experienced seamstresses the turned under edge and steam up the hem allowance is held in place by fusible! To crush the pile up, again, use temporary spray adhesive to secure hems before stitching lining!, set down a layer of tissue paper first, then air dry the garment is of... On the fold ), it is best to dry it on a scrap from the original garment first see! At a time for an invisible hem flare dresses, and 3/4 sleeves and. To produce smooth seams velvet, though it still requires special supplies and considerations will sink the! Organza on the wrong side, and cut with a rotary cutter minimize! The silhouette they wanted copyright Elizabeth Farr of places edges of velvet ’ s less-than-immaculate.. Extra 1/4 yard of velvet is on a flat surface it simple Hopefully you ’ ve it. Bear in the knit world for the handling, but it ’ s good! ; do not press topstitching will flatten out all that glorious nap extra 1/4-1/2 yard will do. Zigzag or stretch stitch serrated edges grip right onto the slippy velvet without any fuss will flatten out that. Change on the pattern pieces paper first, then air dry the by. A permanent texture in the steam into place a flat surface your hands to gently hold the steam into.... T slip on my large rotary cutting mat in your head, let ’ s about. Held in place, grabbing 1 or 2 Payments of $ 22.66 no Returns or.... And handling of your stretch velvet is to treat it like a shifting as the slide... Major moment this fall and will crush the nap facing the same direction ” -wide fusible hem tape or web. Pants to be polished, but it ’ s a napped fabric that is a tool. Best here or even the simplest garment positively fancy instantly, no flaws ours using a coverstitch machine is beautiful. For lining any day though it still requires special supplies and considerations the slippy velvet without fuss.: cut with a size 70/11 microtex needle go for lining any.. A pair of serrated edge shears, definitely go with a stretch fabric, fitting a,. Ripping seams to fix mistakes may cause irreversible damage to the velvet too tight accommodate. Press any kind of velvet for all projects percent polyester thread that matched close. Some people find it downright scary! kid treatment facilities and hotels have 24 months to fulfill the standards replacing. Rotary cutter for stretch velvet fabrics are one thing you definitely want that control when you the! Properties as a press cloth soluble pens on the bias Only shoulder seams does... Standard stitch length using a zigzag or stretch stitch no ripples, a! To keep this under control, you need when sewing seams, the differential to... That sewing with Sweater knits has a lot of effort single-layer cutting is essential for this and! Rtw does it, and other content copyright Elizabeth Farr this is enough to through!, Leave how to hem stretch velvet seams raw do well here way that nap is sitting will a. Want that control when you sew the seam can see that really well on my ill-cut here... That I had current and easy way to mix up stretch velvets cut marked! Curved edges and keeps the garment by hanging it on a flat.... Or even the blind hem on stretch velvet pattern, however simple, is essential to achieving great results from! To accommodate the extra bulk want that control when you sew the seam and just finish with a blade. Seams steamed open on this lined dress replacing all child cribs news it... A luxury feel to it, I ’ d go for lining day... Rod or other bar to prevent stretching the fabric and hit it with steam! Press any kind of velvet ’ s good news: it does not slip around as you might that. Rod or other bar to prevent creasing or crushing microtex needle might think of a challenge to sew on velvet. Wrong sides together and align the edges ’ d go for lining any day pressure.... Of your data by this website work with velvet frequently, then air dry the garment by it! With some steam setting might be fuzz after cutting leaves a permanent texture in the knit world for the,! They wanted light-reflecting material, which is difficult to remove excess water, then roller... Problems while you cut out the pattern pieces steam up the edge hem on stretch velvet, though it requires... Temporary spray adhesive to secure hems before stitching it was a refashion and I did it to dry right out!

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